Summarize this article with:
Kohl eyeliner is one of the oldest eye cosmetics on earth, and also one of the most misunderstood.
Walk into any beauty retailer and you will find dozens of products labeled “kohl.” Most of them contain no actual kohl. The word has become a finish description, not an ingredient list.
So what is kohl eyeliner, really? It starts with ground minerals, ancient trade routes, and a 5,000-year tradition that spans Egypt, the Arabian Peninsula, South Asia, and North Africa.
This article covers what traditional kohl is made of, how it differs from kajal and surma, its history, application techniques, safety concerns around lead content, and how it compares to modern liner formats.
What Is Kohl Eyeliner
Kohl eyeliner is a traditional eye cosmetic with roots going back over 5,000 years. It is not the same product as modern eyeliner sold under that name.
The word comes from the Arabic kuhl, which forms the root k-h-l, meaning “to apply kohl.” That same Arabic root, by way of Middle Latin and French, eventually gave English the word “alcohol.”
In its original form, kohl was a finely ground mineral powder applied directly to the waterline, inner rim, and outer lash area. It served cosmetic, medicinal, and spiritual purposes at once.
Key distinction: Many products labeled “kohl” in Western markets today contain no traditional kohl whatsoever. The word is used to describe a dark shade or smudgy finish, not the actual ingredient.
Traditional kohl is most accurately described as a mineral-based ocular cosmetic, distinct from the wax-and-pigment pencils or gel liners that dominate modern beauty shelves.
It has been worn continuously across Egypt, the Arabian Peninsula, North Africa, South Asia, and the Horn of Africa. The practice has never stopped. It just changed ingredients depending on the region and era.
| Type | Base Ingredient | Region | Still Used Today |
| Traditional kohl | Galena (lead sulfide) | North Africa, Middle East | Yes |
| Kajal | Carbon soot, almond oil | South Asia | Yes |
| Surma | Stibnite or herbs | Pakistan, Afghanistan | Yes |
| Modern “kohl” liner | Carbon black, wax | Global | Yes |
Ingredients in Traditional Kohl vs. Modern Kohl Eyeliner
This is where most people get confused. The ingredient list for authentic kohl and the ingredient list for a product labeled “kohl” at a drugstore are almost completely different.
What Traditional Kohl Actually Contains
Traditional kohl is built around one of two mineral compounds: galena (lead sulfide) or stibnite (antimony sulfide). Galena is by far the more common base across North Africa and the Middle East.
Secondary ingredients vary by region and recipe:
- Frankincense ash, first recorded during Egypt’s 18th Dynasty under Pharaoh Hatshepsut
- Castor oil, ghee, or animal fat to bind the powder
- Rose water, fennel, or cedar honey in some Lebanese preparations
- Beeswax and pine resin, identified in Petrie Museum specimens by researchers in 2022
A 2022 Heritage Daily study of 11 kohl containers from the Petrie Museum in London found the recipes were far more varied than previously understood, with six specimens made predominantly from organic materials including plant oils and animal fat.
Lead Content in Traditional Kohl
This is the part that matters most from a health standpoint.
A 2024 Pure Earth study tested 56 kohl, kajal, and surma samples purchased in the US. More than half exceeded the FDA’s 10 ppm lead limit. Nine samples contained more than 100,000 ppm of lead. Three exceeded 350,000 ppm.
Products labeled “lead-free” were not reliable. More than half of lead-free-labeled products still exceeded the FDA limit, with concentrations reaching as high as 380,000 ppm.
The FDA classifies traditional kohl as an illegal color additive. Importing galena-based kohl into the United States is banned.
What Modern Commercial Kohl Contains
Modern formulation: carbon black or iron oxides for pigment, blended with synthetic waxes, silicones, and sometimes vitamin E.
No lead. No galena. No stibnite.
Western manufacturers switched to carbon-based pigments under regulatory pressure. The shift happened differently in different markets. EU cosmetics regulations, for example, set strict heavy metal limits that effectively eliminated galena from products sold there.
Some companies still use the word “kohl” on packaging purely as a shade descriptor, the same way a product might be called “ebony” or “jet black.” It does not mean the product contains kohl.
The History of Kohl Eyeliner
Kohl is one of the oldest known cosmetics on record. Archaeological evidence places its use in ancient Egypt and southern Iraq as far back as 3500 BCE.
Ancient Egypt
Kohl was worn by Egyptians of all social classes. Pharaohs, priests, peasants, men, women, children. It was not primarily a beauty product.
The Ebers Papyrus, a medical text from around 1550 BCE, documents kohl compounds as protective for the eyes. The ancient Egyptians called it mesdemet, meaning “mineral powder to render the eye expressive.”
Wearing kohl carried the protective force of the eye of Horus. It was cosmetic, spiritual, and medical all at once. Those three functions were not separated the way we separate them now.
Kohl jars, applicator sticks, and tubes were buried with the dead across every era from the Badarian culture through the Greco-Roman period. Hatshepsut, the 18th Dynasty female pharaoh, was the first recorded user of charred frankincense ground into kohl.
Spread Across the Ancient World
From Egypt, kohl moved in every direction.
- Across the Arabian Peninsula and into Persia, where it became known as sormeh
- Into South Asia, where it developed as kajal, a carbon soot-based adaptation
- Down through sub-Saharan Africa, where it appears as tiro (Nigeria) and kwalli
- Possibly into Europe via the Crusades, according to historians
The Arabic term kuhl, the Persian sormeh, the South Asian kajal and surma, the Horn of Africa’s kuul: these are all regional variations of the same ancient practice.
Kohl in Modern History
Usage of traditional handmade kohl never stopped, even as imported Western cosmetics entered markets in the 20th century.
In 2022, a Gaza resident named Tamam Farhan Abu Issa was documented by journalist Zahra Hankir as actively preserving the art of making kohl using methods passed down through generations. Women in Morocco still produce kohl in home or group settings, sourcing ingredients locally.
More recently, in September 2022, Iranian women adopted thick black kohl as a visible act of protest following the death of Mahsa Amini, showing how the cosmetic continues to carry political and cultural weight far beyond its origins.
How Kohl Eyeliner Is Made
The production method separates authentic kohl from anything sold in a modern pencil format.
Traditional Production Process
Process overview:
- Galena or stibnite stone is sourced and cleaned
- The mineral is ground on a flat stone using a pestle until it reaches a very fine, almost talc-like consistency
- Oils, fats, or plant extracts are added and blended in by hand
- The finished paste or powder is stored in a small jar or tube, historically made from wood, bronze, ivory, or glass
The applicator, called a mirwad (or kohl stick), is dipped into the powder and drawn along the inner rim of the eye in a single motion. The eye is briefly closed to distribute the pigment across the waterline.
Studies on lead concentration in powdered vs. cream formats found powders carried dramatically higher lead levels. The 18 powder samples in the 2024 Pure Earth study were far more likely to exceed safe limits than the 38 cream samples tested alongside them.
Modern Manufacturing Differences
How a modern kohl pencil is made is almost nothing like the above.
Pigment (carbon black or iron oxide) is milled to a fine particle size, then blended with waxes (carnauba, candelilla, or synthetic), silicone compounds, and sometimes emollients. The mixture is heated, poured into molds, cooled, and then inserted into a wood or plastic casing.
The result is a pencil with good payoff, decent staying power on the waterline, and a smudgy finish that approximates the look of traditional kohl without any of the mineral ingredients.
Handmade traditional kohl is still produced and sold today, primarily in Morocco, India, Pakistan, and parts of the Middle East, available at local souks and specialty vendors.
Kohl Eyeliner Types and Forms
Not everything called kohl is the same product. The format, ingredients, and regional name all vary significantly.
Kajal
Carbon soot-based, originally made by burning a cotton wick soaked in castor oil or ghee and collecting the soot on a metal surface.
Texture is soft and creamy. Blends easily. Primarily a South Asian tradition, though widely sold globally.
Key ingredients in traditional kajal: lamp black (soot), almond oil, camphor, castor oil, sometimes herbal extracts.
Modern commercial kajal replaces soot with carbon black pigment and adds waxes and silicones. Usually safer than traditional mineral-based kohl from a heavy metal standpoint.
Surma
Primary region of use: Pakistan and Afghanistan.
Surma is typically a finer, looser powder than kajal, applied with a thin stick. Traditional surma is galena-based, though herbal surma made from zinc oxide, pearl, and herbs is also common.
A 2024 King County, Washington study of 145 eyeliner samples found surma and kohl products consistently had higher lead concentrations than kajal products, because surma and kohl are more likely to be galena-based while kajal tends to be soot-based.
From 2016 to 2020, Afghan refugee children in Washington State had the highest prevalence of blood lead levels above CDC reference levels among any refugee population in the state. Traditional eyeliners were identified as a contributing source.
Modern Kohl Pencil
The format most people in Western markets encounter.
- Wax-based formula with carbon black or iron oxide pigment
- Retractable or sharpenable wood casing
- Soft enough for waterline application
- Often labeled “waterproof” or “smudge-proof”
Nothing in this product resembles traditional kohl in formulation. It is named for the look it produces, not the ingredients it uses. If you’re applying eyeliner on the waterline for the first time, the modern kohl pencil is the format you are most likely using.
| Format | Texture | Base Ingredient | Best For |
| Traditional kohl (pot) | Powder or paste | Galena or stibnite | Waterline, inner rim |
| Kajal | Soft, creamy | Carbon soot or carbon black | Waterline, smudged looks |
| Surma | Fine powder | Galena or herbs | Inner rim, traditional use |
| Modern kohl pencil | Waxy, smooth | Carbon black, iron oxide | Waterline, tightlining, lash line |
Kajal vs. Kohl
These two terms are used interchangeably in product marketing, but they are not the same thing.
Kohl is the broader category. It refers to any dark eye cosmetic in the mineral-based or powder tradition, primarily galena or stibnite.
Kajal is a specific type. Soot-based, softer, more blendable. It is technically a subset of the kohl tradition, adapted through South Asian practice into a distinct product with different ingredients and a different texture profile.
Modern brands blur this further by labeling creamy pencils as “kohl kajal,” which is technically a contradiction in terms but reflects how both names have become style descriptors rather than ingredient descriptors.
How to Apply Kohl Eyeliner
Application method depends entirely on the format you are working with. Traditional pot kohl and a modern kohl pencil are applied differently.
Applying Traditional Kohl
Traditional method, unchanged for thousands of years:
- Dip the mirwad (kohl stick) into the powder or paste
- Place the stick along the inside of the lower waterline
- Briefly close the eye and pull the applicator outward toward the temple in one smooth motion
- Repeat on the upper waterline if desired
- Blink to distribute product evenly across the inner rim
Egyptians also used the applicator more like a palette knife to draw lines on the outer contour of the eye, varying coverage and shape depending on fashion or purpose.
Applying Modern Kohl Pencil
The modern pencil format is more flexible than traditional pot kohl.
Waterline application (tightlining): Gently pull the lower lid down, apply short strokes along the inner rim. Build product gradually rather than dragging hard in one pass. Sensitive waterlines do not respond well to pressure.
Outer lash line: Apply close to the lash root using the tip of the pencil. Smudge immediately with a cotton swab, a smudge brush, or a fingertip while the formula is still warm from body heat.
Layering: Kohl pencil works well as a base under powder eyeshadow. The slight tackiness of the wax formula gives the shadow something to grip. If you’re going for a smokey eye, applying kohl first and then blending shadow over it gives much more intensity than shadow alone.
For anyone learning how to do eye makeup from scratch, kohl pencil is genuinely one of the more forgiving starting points. It blends, it smudges, and small mistakes disappear easily with a cotton swab.
Tools commonly used alongside kohl application:
- Flat smudge brush for blending outer corners
- Cotton swab for cleanup and precise smudging
- Angled brush if using kohl as a base for powder shadow
Kohl Eyeliner Safety and Health Concerns
The health picture around kohl eyeliner is not complicated. Traditional galena-based kohl contains lead. Lead is toxic at any level of exposure, per the CDC.
The risks are real and documented. But they are also almost entirely avoidable if you understand which products to avoid.
Lead Content and Regulatory Status
FDA classification: Traditional kohl, kajal, surma, tiro, al-kahal, tozali, and kwalli are designated illegal color additives under US law. Importing galena-based kohl into the United States is prohibited.
A 2024 Pure Earth study tested 56 traditional eyeliner samples purchased in the US. Of those, 29 exceeded the FDA’s 10 ppm lead limit. Nine contained more than 100,000 ppm. Three exceeded 350,000 ppm lead concentration.
Products labeled “lead-free” were not safe either. More than half of lead-free-labeled products in the same study exceeded the FDA limit, with concentrations reaching as high as 380,000 ppm.
Powder formats carry higher risk. Only 2 of 18 powder samples in the Pure Earth study were below the FDA limit. Cream products were far less likely to exceed it.
Risks for Children
A 2024 study published in the journal Pediatrics, conducted in New York City, examined products collected between 2013 and 2022. Children with elevated blood lead levels who wore traditional eye cosmetics had higher lead concentrations in their blood than children who did not.
Three products labeled “baby kajal” in the Pure Earth study contained lead above the FDA limit.
From 2016 to 2020, Afghan refugee children in Washington State had the highest rate of blood lead levels above CDC reference levels among any refugee population in the state. Traditional eyeliners brought from Afghanistan were identified as a contributing source, per Northwest Center for Occupational Health and Safety research.
The CDC has confirmed no safe blood lead level exists for children. Lead affects neurological development, causes learning difficulties, and in high doses can lead to seizures and anemia.
Absorption Routes and Adult Risk
How lead from kohl enters the body:
- Subdermal absorption through the ocular mucosa and tear duct
- Hand-to-mouth contact after touching the eye area
- Inhalation of fine powder particles during application
- Overnight contact if product is not removed before sleep
Adults are not immune. Consumer Reports notes that small amounts from multiple sources including food, water, and cosmetics can combine to reach harmful levels over time.
A 2024 CDC case report (MMWR) documented a mother and three children with elevated blood lead levels following prolonged use of surma eyeliner in New York City. The family continued using the product even after repeated health warnings.
What Safe Modern Kohl Looks Like
Modern commercial kohl pencils made and sold in the US, EU, and other regulated markets do not contain galena or lead compounds.
Carbon black and iron oxides replaced mineral pigments. These formulas are regulated under cosmetics law and tested before sale.
Practical checks before buying any kohl product:
- Check country of manufacture: products made in the US and EU consistently show lower lead levels in testing
- Avoid powder formats from unverified sources
- Ignore “lead-free” labeling unless the product comes from a regulated market with verifiable testing
- If you use traditional kohl for cultural or religious reasons, seek lab-tested ithmid from reputable suppliers who can trace the source material
Kohl Eyeliner vs. Other Eyeliners
Kohl occupies a specific position in the eyeliner category. It is not a substitute for every other format, and nothing else does quite what it does on the waterline.
Kohl vs. Liquid Eyeliner
These two products are built for completely different purposes.
Liquid eyeliner delivers sharp, defined lines. It does not smudge, does not blend, and is not suitable for waterline use in most formulas. If you want a crisp cat eye or winged liner, liquid is the tool.
Kohl smudges and blends by design. Waterline application is its natural territory. The finish is softer and more lived-in than anything a liquid liner can produce.
Using liquid liner on the waterline tends to irritate the eye and fade fast because of moisture. Kohl holds better in that environment. The Dior Kohl Crayon, in independent testing by WWD, outperformed liquid liners for waterline staying power on oily lids.
Kohl vs. Gel Eyeliner
Gel liner sits between kohl and liquid in terms of precision and finish. It dries to a harder set than kohl, which makes it good for defined lines but less ideal for smudging.
Gel strengths: intense pigmentation, long wear, sharp edges when applied with an angled brush.
Kohl strengths: waterline comfort, instant smudge ability, softer finish for smoky effects.
On waterline specifically, most gel liners smudge underneath the eye within a few hours. Kohl pencils designed for that area tend to hold more consistently, especially softer-formula versions without wax overload.
Kohl vs. Standard Pencil Eyeliner
The actual formula difference is softer wax content and higher pigment loading in kohl pencils. A standard pencil eyeliner is firmer and easier to sharpen to a fine point for precision work.
| Eyeliner Type | Best Use | Waterline Safe | Smudgeable |
| Kohl pencil | Waterline, smoky looks | Yes | Yes, by design |
| Standard pencil | Lash line, definition | Sometimes | Somewhat |
| Gel liner | Precise lash line work | Some formulas | Briefly, before setting |
| Liquid liner | Sharp, graphic lines | No | No |
Worth noting: kohl pencils need more frequent sharpening than firmer pencil liners. The softer formula blunts faster. If you’re tightlining regularly, a slightly firmer kohl pencil gives better control than a very soft one.
Why Kohl Wins on Pigmentation
Kohl delivers higher pigment density per stroke than most other formats at comparable price points. This is because the wax-to-pigment ratio leans toward more pigment.
One pass on the waterline with a good kohl pencil produces a result that would take two or three passes with a standard pencil liner. That efficiency matters for the waterline, where you do not want to drag repeatedly over the sensitive inner rim.
For anyone building eye makeup looks for brown eyes where the goal is depth and drama, kohl applied to the waterline and blended into eyeshadow creates a finished look faster than any other liner format.
Who Uses Kohl Eyeliner and Why
The user base for kohl spans multiple continents and about 5,000 years of continuous use. The reasons people reach for it today vary significantly depending on context.
Traditional and Cultural Users
Kohl remains a daily-use cosmetic across large parts of South Asia, North Africa, and the Middle East. For many users, it is not a makeup choice so much as a routine that predates any modern beauty concept.
Pakistan and Afghanistan: Surma applied to children and adults as both cosmetic and protective tradition.
Arabian Peninsula: Kohl worn by both men and women, including the Bedouin and the “Flower Men” of Saudi Arabia’s Qahtan tribe, as cultural identity and sun protection.
Egypt and North Africa: Handmade kohl produced and sold at local souks, with recipes varying by region. Palestinian women documented by journalist Zahra Hankir in 2022 still apply kohl to grandchildren using methods unchanged from their grandmothers.
India: Kajal as a daily-use cosmetic and protective tradition for infants and adults alike, embedded in religious and cultural practice across communities.
Religious Use
Kohl holds a documented place in Islamic practice.
Applying kohl is considered Sunnah, meaning it follows the practice of Prophet Muhammad, who is recorded in multiple hadiths as wearing ithmid kohl for eye health. Muslim scholar ibn Abi Shaybah documented guidance on application method.
The specific type recommended in Islamic tradition is ithmid, made from antimony, not the galena-based products that carry lead risk. Islamic scholars including Ibn Al-Qayyim specifically identified ithmid as the recommended form.
Kohl use intensifies during Ramadan and Eid, worn as both adornment and as a practice with spiritual intention. Men applying kohl in religious contexts is well-documented, particularly in Saudi Arabia and other Gulf countries.
Modern Makeup Users
Beyond traditional and religious contexts, kohl has found a second wave of popularity through social media.
According to Zahra Hankir, author of Eyeliner: A Cultural History (Penguin Random House, 2023), social media has driven a resurgence in kohl use among diaspora communities in the US and UK, connected to a broader interest in identity and ancestral beauty practices.
The look kohl creates has also attracted Western users with no cultural connection to the product. A soft, smudgy, high-pigment finish is harder to achieve with any other product. The “undone” eye aesthetic that cycled through editorial and runway looks for several seasons is essentially the kohl look.
For smaller eyes, applying kohl to the waterline opens the eye when used on the lower rim and can intensify the look when used on both rims. The application choice changes the entire effect, which is part of what makes kohl so adaptable across different makeup styles and eye shapes.
Professional makeup artists use kohl for editorial and runway work where the goal is texture and depth over precision. MAC, Urban Decay, and Dior all produce kohl pencil formulas in this category specifically because the finish cannot be replicated by other formats.
FAQ on What Is Kohl Eyeliner
What is kohl eyeliner made of?
Traditional kohl is made from galena (lead sulfide) or stibnite (antimony sulfide), ground into a fine powder. Modern commercial versions use carbon black and iron oxides instead, with no mineral lead compounds.
Is kohl eyeliner the same as kajal?
Not exactly. Kajal is a specific type, traditionally carbon soot-based and creamy in texture. Kohl is the broader category. The terms are used interchangeably in marketing, but their ingredients and origins differ.
Is kohl eyeliner safe to use?
Modern regulated kohl pencils are safe. Traditional galena-based kohl is not. A 2024 Pure Earth study found more than half of traditional kohl samples exceeded the FDA’s lead limit of 10 ppm.
What is the difference between kohl and regular eyeliner?
Kohl has a softer, waxier formula designed for waterline application and smudging. Regular pencil eyeliner is firmer, better suited for precise lash line work. Liquid eyeliner cannot replicate the blendable finish kohl produces.
Can you use kohl eyeliner on the waterline?
Yes. The waterline is kohl’s primary application area. Its soft formula glides on the inner rim without dragging. Most liquid and gel liners are not formulated for this sensitive area.
Where does kohl eyeliner come from?
Kohl originated in ancient Egypt around 3500 BCE and spread across the Arabian Peninsula, North Africa, and South Asia. The Arabic word kuhl is its direct root. Its use has never fully stopped in any of these regions.
Does kohl eyeliner contain lead?
Traditional mineral-based kohl often does. The FDA has banned galena kohl imports into the US. Products labeled kohl at Western retailers use synthetic pigments and contain no lead, but unverified imported products remain a risk.
What is surma and how does it differ from kohl?
Surma is a fine powder eyeliner used primarily in Pakistan and Afghanistan. It is often galena-based, like traditional kohl, but lighter in texture. The two terms describe overlapping but regionally distinct products with similar mineral origins.
Is kohl eyeliner used for religious reasons?
Yes. Applying kohl is considered Sunnah in Islam, following the practice of Prophet Muhammad. The specific type recommended is ithmid, made from antimony. Its use is documented across centuries of Islamic scholarship and daily practice.
What does kohl eyeliner look like on the eyes?
Kohl gives a soft, smudgy, high-pigment finish. Applied to the waterline it darkens and defines the inner rim. Blended outward it creates a smoky eye base. The result is less precise than liquid liner but far more blendable.
Conclusion
This conclusion is for an article presenting kohl eyeliner as far more than a beauty product.
It is a mineral-based ocular cosmetic with documented use stretching from ancient Egypt to modern South Asia, carried forward through trade routes, religious practice, and cultural identity.
The distinction between traditional galena-based kohl and modern commercial formulas matters. One carries real lead poisoning risk. The other is regulated, tested, and safe.
Kajal, surma, and kohl pencil are not the same product, even when sold side by side under similar names.
For waterline pigmentation and smudgy eye definition, nothing performs quite like a well-formulated kohl pencil. Knowing what you are buying makes all the difference.
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